London’s 20-Somethings Suit up

While suits are set to dominate the next Met Gala, London’s men are already swapping shapeless cargos for cigarette-cut trousers - why it’s smoking hot but nothing new.
By Johnnie Potter

Next year's Met Gala theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, will no doubt bring plenty of sharp two-sets to the pink carpet. If you can’t wait that long to get your made-to-measure fill however, there are already plenty of men across the pond who have added a suit or two to their daily wardrobe. London’s young men are fueling a second-coming of spotless tailoring.

Today’s influencers in Britain have seemingly played their part in bringing suits back into the realm of cultural cool. Indie sleaze has undoubtedly staged a historical comeback in recent years, and even more so since the recent Brat summer was marked by a new era for Carli XCX and producer The Dare, the latter making shirt and tie a trademark style.

“We certainly have been dressing too casually for too long” argues Darcy Streamer, a club-surfer by night and NHS worker by day. While Darcy’s work attire consists of a ‘slimmed down’ version of his night-out look, today he’s pulling out all the stops. A crisp ironed shirt with a Barrymore-style collar, traditional necktie, high waisted straight cut trousers and italian brogues; a look he mentions takes a couple of hours to assemble. Seemingly a contradictory example to the scruffy stereotype associated with young men, Darcy is one of many 20-somethings who feel more inclined to invest this extra time into their daily look.

“I don't like the term vintage,” says Darcy, “In the 19th or 20th century, every man owned at least some piece of fine clothing they had handed down to them, it was normal to reuse old things.” Darcy explains that each piece of clothing he owns gets maximum use, nothing he wears is thrown away. “I’m lucky enough to be able to save up for five or six months for a new suit because I see it as an investment in the future.” Indeed the investment Darcy mentions is part of a topic on many lips; how do we get into a habit of buying clothing that will last?

“I come from a very working class background, you wouldn't believe it, people see my clothes and make backhanded comments about me being a member of the Young Conservatives.”
While I could see that some types of suits still struggled to shake off their association with a certain lifestyle, I could feel that the prestige embedded in tailored clothing represented a special significance for Darcy - perhaps something deeply rooted in his identity nonetheless. “My mother was a seamstress, which I suppose inspired me a lot. Everything in the house was always well-kept; a real keen eye and an attention to detail. Her parents' generation strived to never appear any lower in society than what they were. It was all in the fine details, cleaning the house, the porch, the pavement and stepping out with pride. Once you start applying that same pride to yourself, you start feeling much better in what you're wearing.”

It has to be said also, that tailored clothing has only become more accessible to people as it has progressed. While the suit’s status can be traced back to a time where only wealthy individuals could afford one, today's mass-consumer shops like H&M also offer tailoring at a lower price.

“Everything is accessible to you, you just need to have somebody who can advise you in the right way.”

Darcy Streamer previously worked at The Cheaney Shoe Shop in Covent Garden before his current key-worker role, helping him discover all the best places in the city for sourcing classic items.
Photos by Johnnie Potter

As with all trends, what was once dated will eventually find relevance again. In the 21st century, ‘vintage’ styles, from flared trousers to mod cuts have forced their way back into popular fashion. On the city’s streets, the tailored suit is now being given its moment in the limelight. For the majority of its existence, the suit has been synonymous with professionalism across the world. While movie stars like Sean Connery once made the suit a symbol of masculinity in Britain, by the early 2000s, tailored clothing had fallen out of favour with millennials, becoming synonymous with the stiffness of generations gone by.

A longing to invest into one’s appearance extends well into London’s storied nightlife, where events such as Deptford’s Northern Soul Club create spaces where male attendees embrace the sharp shouldered aesthetics of days gone by, donning polished shoes and pressed shirts.

“Attendees often see dressing up as part of a ritual. It’s not just about looking good—it’s about honouring the scene and the music.” says Lewis Henderson, co-runner of Deptford Northern Soul. “I think many young people are starting to feel a bit uninspired by the overly casual "night out" look that’s on offer. Tracksuits and sneakers are practical, but they don’t necessarily create the same excitement or sense of occasion. Clubs like Deptford Northern Soul are offering a space where dressing up is not only accepted but encouraged.”

“When you step onto the dance floor in your sharp suit or polished dress, you’re stepping into a role that celebrates individuality and pride in appearance.”

Guests at Deptford Northern Soul are well versed in the music subculture’s look.
Photos by Jeanie Jean

Ultimately, the return of suiting up reflects a broader cultural shift. In an era of disposable fashion, young men are reclaiming tailoring as a symbol of individuality, self-respect, and sustainability. Darcy Streamer believes that men too deserve to feel confident and attractive in clothing made to fit their body “Men typically have a shape to their body, and proper fitting clothing should accentuate that,” explains Darcy. "As well as women, men too have attractive features worth highlighting.” The suit is not just a relic of the past, but a timeless style now refreshed by a new generation.